Tag Archives: travel

Muscat, Oman: The Chedi

Not one who enjoys staying grounded for long, I jetted off to Muscat, Oman this past weekend.  Partly to celebrate to celebrate the 3-year anniversary with my boyfriend, and partly simply to get the hell out of Dubai.

I had been to Muscat once before, almost 3 years ago, and absolutely adored the old Arabic city book-ended by the stark Hajjar Mountains and the lovely Indian Ocean.  I’d been looking to go back ever since.  Unfortunately, during this trip I did not actually get to see much of the city; the obscene heat this time of year just doesn’t allow for outdoor activities.  I did, however get to stay at The Chedi, a resort I’d been basically obsessing over staying at ever since I stopped there for a quick cocktail during my previous visit to Muscat.

And it did not disappoint.

I’ve definitely been in 5-star hotels that, while nice, did not really impress; The Chedi Muscat was not one of these.  The entire experience was enormously pleasurable and not one aspect of the hotel or the service there was anything less than 5-star incredible.  True, you’re going to pay for those services, but in my opinion, it was money well-spent.  Most notably, the food was a costly addition.  10.5 rials (~ 28 USD) for the hamburger ordered from the poolside lunch menu, but seriously, that hamburger, which my boyfriend claimed was the best he had ever eaten, was ridiculously delectable – as was any other food or cocktail eaten on the Chedi grounds.  Even the gift shop was considerably better than the norm and, not having bought a new bathing suit since I first moved to Dubai, I was presented with a large selection of colorful options from La Perla.

reception

We arrived at The Chedi quite early; a 6.40am flight out of Dubai had us at the Chedi at 9am.  Remarkably, they were able to check us into our room immediately (although it’s worth noting that the summer is the low season in the Gulf)!  Additionally, I requested a late check out for the next day (our flight departed at 9pm) and they offered a 6pm check-out time.  Very much appreciated, especially when I figured offering a 2 or 3pm check-out would be generous.

Upon check-in, we decided to upgrade to a Chedi Deluxe Club room.  The complimentary minibar (OMG yes), pre-dinner cocktails and canapes and airport transfer in a hotel car, not to mention the better room, seemed worth the added fee.

the Chedi pool

Without question, my favorite bit of the Chedi and its gorgeous grounds was the beach-side Chedi pool, which was open to adults only.  Not having to tolerate children screaming and splashing around in the pool was such a treat.  Nothing ruins a relaxing day at the pool more or faster than the appearance of children.  The Chedi also had a second pool, the Serai pool, which was open to children.  Both were really lovely, but I spent all of my time relaxing on the massive lounges at the Chedi pool, broken up with dips in the (really) chilled pool and the ocean, which was literally bath-water warm.

the Serai pool

Lazy holidays are really, really not my thing.  I can tolerate doing nothing but lazing for a few days, maximum, but then I will quickly become bored and agitated.  For just a weekend though, I found The Chedi to be a choice destination to partake in absolutely fucking nothing.

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[ full Muscat/Chedi album here ]

{ music: Bitter:Sweet }


America: Land of the Free & Home of the Ho’s Wearing Really Really Short Shorts

That’s what I took away from this particular trip home.  Bitches be wearing some insanely short shorts.  Everywhere you look.  Was it like this before I left?  I don’t remember…the last time I was in the states during summer was in 2007, as I left just before summer in 2008.  So either 1.) I’ve simply forgotten; 2.) this is a new trend; or 3.)I’ve been in the Middle East for too long and wearing shorts with hemlines a half inch past your vagina is totally normal.  Unfortunately I am in no place to mock, because in the end I found myself entranced by a pair of heavily-embellished ho-shorts that I simply could not pass up.  Damnit.

Manhattan & Brooklyn bridges

Carson St in the South Side, Pittsburgh

I spent the majority of this trip in my hometown of Pittsburgh, followed by a brief stop in Philadelphia (where I lived for 4.5 years prior to Dubai) and then finished up with a handful of days in NYC.  What made this trip a bit more interesting than a usual trip home is that I was joined by my boyfriend, who is English and had never visited the states before.  I found it quite enjoyable to show him around a bit of my country, and watch him be in awe of our our population of fatties in electric wheelchairs.  So it was a very busy trip, but as vacations that consist of lazing around drive me mad, I would not have had it any other way.

Ohiopyle / Laurel Highlands

In Pittsburgh, we filled our days visiting the local neighborhoods: the South Side with its plethora of bars, Shadyside’s shops, the Strip District’s fresh fish and food markets (and Primanti Bros. sandwiches), and Oakland and the North Side for the Carnegie Museum of Natural History and the Andy Warhol museum, respectively.  Always interested in getting a taste of a new restaurant, we also visited the new(ish) Salt of the Earth restaurant, which uses local and seasonal foods to create their ever-changing menu.  Getting out of the city, we visited Ohiopyle state park in the Laurel Highlands.  It was nice for a change of scenery and a brief stroll through the Pennsylvania forest.

Looking for something particularly “American” to do, we attended a Pirates game (winning against the NY Mets), which was pretty good, especially as I hadn’t gone to a baseball game since I was a kid.

the Pirates' stadium, PNC Park, comes with an OK view

A day was also spent at Kennywood, where amusement rides aside, the price of admission is well worth the choice people-watching all around you.  This is another place I had not been in many years (10+).  The last time I really went there was when I was working there at the end of high school and it was such a nightmare of a job (although still not the worst job I’ve ever had) I was traumatized against going back for some time.

cuteness on South Street, Philli

Only a single night was spent in my previous temporary home of Philadelphia, but time was not wasted and I made sure to hit up some of my favorite dining spots, such as the Reading Terminal Market and Morimoto.  If you ever visit Philadelphia and enjoy food, I cannot emphasize enough the importance of visiting the Reading Terminal Market.  Between eating we browsed my favorite areas – Rittenhouse and Olde City (my old neighborhood, the best!) and perused the Mütter Museum (medical oddities), which I’m ashamed to admit I had never visited while living in Philli.

For the night, we checked into the Palomar, where a spa room will get you a pee with a view.  Also a shower with a view.  And bathrobes in zebra and leopard print.  It was definitely a quality hotel and I’d happily recommend it.  My one complaint was that the minibar did not contain any champagne, which seemed odd to me for an upmarket hotel.

room at Thompson LES

New York City was, as always, amazing.  I based us out of the Lower East Side in the industrial but chic Thompson LES hotel, and each day was spent walking from one neighborhood to the next, pretty much from morning to night.  And nothing could have made me happier.  My biggest dislike about Dubai is the lack of walking areas.  There just are very few walkable neighborhoods and even then, you cannot really walk from one to the next.  There was not much focus on our time in NYC other than taking in the neighborhoods, from FiDi to Central Park West (despite my general opposition for spending time in mid- & uptown) and notable parks like the innovative High Line, which I loved.

One thing we did focus on was naturally – the food.  Previously-planned dinners at Blue Hill Farm in Greenwich Village and Del Posto in the Meatpacking District were both outstanding.  It’s difficult to pick a favorite as they both stood out in their own way; Blue Hill Farm a lovely small venue featuring dishes from farm fresh foods and Del Posto certainly on the grander side where we indulged in a 7-course chef’s tasting menu of Italian delights (100 layer lasagna, I shit you not).

Jing Fong's in Chinatown

We also made it a point to visit Jing Fong in Chinatown, a dim sum cafeteria/hall that seemed pretty recommended and ended up being both quirky and delicious, as well as Beauty & Essex for drinks, near our hotel in the Lower East Side. B&E – with its cheeky pawn shop facade was a fun place to stop with great drinks (+ free champagne in the bathroom, ladies! but none for you, dudes) but my understanding is that the food is not as good as it could be.  I was originally planning to eat there (the “American tapas” idea intrigued me) was but talked out of it by seemingly mediocre dining experiences left and right.  Otherwise, we stumbled into various bars, restaurants and cafes here there and everywhere and were, for the most part, very pleased with everything on offer.

boating in Central Park

Some particular highlights were – a boating session on one of the lakes within Central Park (where not only turtles and ducks, but pages ripped from porn mags abounded), shopping in SoHo and I really cannot express enough how much I simply love taking in Downtown NYC in general.  I don’t think I could ever tire of it.

Generally speaking, I did not take many photographs during this trip.  I dunno why, but I always feel like such an asshhat taking photos in places that I am familiar with.  It’s a real shame though, because I’d love to have more pictures from all the places I visited.  Oh well.  Another trip is in order, I suppose.

I’m also bummed I dropped the ball on seeing some people and feel like a jackass in that regard.  It was an even busier trip than I expected it to be and I just couldn’t get it all worked out, sadly.

Hopefully it won’t be another 1.5 years until my trip home…ugh, but it’s tough.

Empire State building from Greenwich Village

[ USA June 2011 full photo album ]

{ music: A Forest Mighty Black }


Americuhhh

Back to the states tomorrow! So weird having not been there for more than 1.5 years.

Though the bigger news is – that I am packing in advance.  By a whole day.  I normally wait until about 2 hours before I need to be at the airport, simply because packing in advance is for douchebags (& I’m an asshole, not a douchebag), but I thought it might be wise this time around as I have gifts to fit in and maybe to actually think about the clothes I’m packing instead of throwing everything that I have even a remote fondness for.  As I normally do.

Cat wants to come, but she can’t.  Because I need a vacation from her incessant yowling.  And her bitchery.

So excited to arrive at the airport tomorrow and get stuck into my regularly scheduled pre-flight fish n chips n booze.  And to meet the person sitting behind or in front of me on the flight who will undoubtedly become my sworn enemy.  Everyone on flights is rude and inconsiderate except for me.  Real talk.

I am not going to be able to stand myself after that 14 hour flight to NYC.  Hope that JFK has somewhere I can take a nice whore’s bath, so that I can be remotely decent sitting through the layover and then not be totally rank on the Pittsburgh flight.


Travel Desperate

I feel like I am in the midst of a travel drought and I hate it. Haven’t had a travel holiday in just over 2 months (Switzerland) and won’t be packing up for my next one for another 2 months (America). It’s driving me crazy. I feel like this is the longest travel-less stretch I’ve had since I moved to Dubai and started making efforts at seeing the world. It might not be the longest, but it feels like it, for sure. Ho-hum. Life could worse, I shouldn’t complain too much.

This break has, however, found me happily reminiscing about a few of my favorite travel stops, which I would recommend and hope to return to in the future…

Ubud, Bali, Indonesia

 

a usual scene in ubud

Hands-down, my all-time favorite place I’ve had the pleasure of visiting.  Thankfully, it was before that ‘Eat, Pray, Love’ dumb bitch bullshit-fest became made its appearance on the scene.  Don’t go if you’re looking for the beach; Ubud is located in the middle of the island far from the shore.  It’s unbelievably lush with a hugely entertaining Sacred Monkey Forest, more Buddhist temples in the surrounding area than you can hope for, quirky shops, and for food junkies like me – an endless supply of interesting and tasty cafes.  It’s a very chilled-out place all-around, however with just enough going on in the evenings to keep you entertained.


Pokhara, Nepal

 

the main street - not very busy

On Lake Phewa and surrounded by the Annapurna mountain range of the Himalayas, this is another excellent spot to chill out.  A sort of gateway to many Himalaya treks within the region (I took in the Annapurna Sanctuary trek – amazing), but the town is also full of yoga centers if that’s more your thing.  There is a ‘main street’ of shops, cafes, bars and clubs, but it’s still a very laid back, lazy place.  Pokhara really benefits from its location surrounded by incredibly beautiful nature and related activities.


Nafplio, Greece

 

one of nafplio's many quaint side streets

I cannot really express how amazing Nafplio is.  It’s a stunning old town in its own right, but also conveniently located for easy travel to a bunch of ancient Greek sites such as Epidavros, Mycenae and Mystras.  Not to mention Athens is a pretty easy train ride away.  Located right on the Mediterranean with cobblestone streets and plazas in the shadow of an imposing medieval fortress, this town (originally Greece’s capital) has no shortage of nifty shops, amazing – I mean so freakin’ delicious – food and wine, and friendly, cozy guest houses (and at least one quite swank, chic hotel).  And lots of cats.  While Ubud remains my #1 fave spot, more than anywhere else I could actually see myself living in Nafplio.

I haven’t been very awesome at updating lately. Massive tech issues at everywhere I turn, and very busy with work; the art gallery I’ve been working with since last September finally opens on April 21 – so excite…and BUSY!

{ music: Röyksopp }


Of Bed Bugs and Baggage

I’m surprised to admit that I am hugely excited for my upcoming trip to the states – and it’s still about 3.5 months away!  I would say “unfortunately” 3+ months away, but frankly I’ve got no interest in visiting PA outside of the summer and early autumn and risk freezing my ass off in dreary, wet, cold weather.  I guess my excitement is not too shocking, considering it is home and I haven’t been since autumn 2009 and nor have I seen any family or friends since then.  A year and a half in-between visits.  That’s a long time and I’m only talking about Pittsburgh.  I haven’t been back to Philadelphia or NYC since I moved away in June 2008.  I think I am most excited though because my boyfriend is coming with me, who is English, and has never been to the US.  I imagine it’s going to be really fun to introduce him to where I’m from and my favorite bits all around Pittsburgh, Philadelphia and New York City.  I have literally never been in Pittsburgh with someone who has not been there before, so showing the place to someone entirely unfamiliar with it should be interesting.  Also, the food.  Primanti Bros, American pizza (OMG Vincent’s), deep-fried turkey, Philli’s Reading Terminal Market…  I am going to absolutely stuff myself with unhealthy (for the most part), delicious, American chow.  And then regret it once all is said and done. Last time I came home I started gorging on Dunkin’ Donuts (donuts and breakfast sandwiches) as soon as I got off the plane and into the airport; sickness soon followed.  I’m disgusting.

Side note: Recommendations for things to see and do around the Pittsburgh area with someone who has never been before would be most welcome.  I’ve got some ideas – Strip District and other neighborhoods, Warhol/Carnegie Museums, Ohio Pyle, Kennywood…  I think it’s likely I take much of Pittsburgh’s offerings for granted and am really drawing blanks.  Not to mention, I haven’t lived in Pittsburgh full-time since 1999, I am admittedly out of the loop.  (Although, not so much as I assumed, apparently, as I’ve yet to hear much I haven’t been aware of. Does Pittsburgh ever evolve/update?  And people wonder why I left and don’t want to move back.)

I am also really big on planning ahead so this weekend I started booking flights and hotels.  I’m a bit of fiend for NYC hotels.  I love them – especially boutique hotels in downtown Manhattan – and browsing the options online is a hugely enjoyable activity for me, and one I’ve been mulling over since I first started thinking about this trip about a year ago.  Unfortunately, both of these activities had some frustrations attached.

First, I completely forgot about the current bed bug situation going on in NYC.  What is with that?  It’s entirely disgusting!  How did this infestation happen?  How long before it’s under control or stopped? Even the swankiest joints can’t seem to escape it and upon looking up the hotel I had originally booked (Hotel on Rivington), turns out there are definite reports of bed bugs.  As disappointment and horror swept over me, I quickly decided it was not worth taking a risk and staying there anyway (it seems like the infestation is mostly on lower floors and I had specifically booked a high floor for the view, so I might have been OK, but…?) so cancelled the booking post-haste.

Then I thought, OK, I’ll just go in for the Gramercy Park Hotel, a hotel of that repute should not have bed bugs…but there are recent stories of employees with bug sightings in the guest rooms.  So, maybe it’s just a disgruntled employee, but who knows?  I don’t want to take the chance.

I finally figured that a safe bet might be to book in a totally new hotel, the just-opened Mondrian SoHo (meh, too pretty for my taste) soon-to-open Nolitan in, accordingly, Nolita (actually, technically, it’s in Little Italy; Nolita starts across the street on the northern side of Kenmare)!  The fact that it’s new has me thinking it should be bed bug free?  Here’s to hoping.  And it boasts rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows with views of downtown Manhattan (if you book a ‘Corner Cityscape’ room, that is), which is what initially attracted me to the Rivington (and then later, the Mondrian), so I’m still getting everything I wanted in a room.  I am completely in love with the industrial look of this hotel.  Mmmm…cement.

I know that I am more than likely totally over-reacting to the bed bugs, but I also don’t see any reason to take a chance and stay in a venue where there are definite reports of an infestation.  The bites sound miserable and how aggravating would it be if they happened to hitch a ride back to my flat in Dubai?  No, thank you.

And secondly, the flight from NYC to Pittsburgh on Delta has further stirred my already-great hatred for American-based airlines.  Since I flew on what was, without question the most miserable flight of my life with United Airlines to and from the states and UAE back in 2009, I have vowed to never ever fly (international) on an American-based airline ever again if it could be reasonably avoided.  It was like a ghetto in the sky, I shit you not.  I’ve also flown trans-Atlantic on British Airways and Air France, which I have heard many complaints about from many people, but seriously, they were far more pleasant than my experiences on American flights (and I’m not just talking about UA).

While I stayed true to my vow not to fly on an American-based airline from Dubai to the states, the connecting flight from NYC – Pittsburgh on an American airline really couldn’t be avoided.  Settling on a convenient flight with Delta I decided to see what their baggage policy is, worrying that they may only allow for one free checked baggage, as I know how American flights love to rape their customers.  Imagine my surprise to find that they don’t even allow for one free checked baggage!  Nope, your first piece of checked baggage is $25 and your second checked baggage is $35 (want to check a third bag – fork over another $125, sucker).  What a load of bullshit!  It’s really infuriating!  To make it even more irritating, on Emirates Airline I can check up to 70 pounds of baggage free, but if my luggage weighs more than 50 pounds on Delta, then I’ve got to cough up $90.  Now, the overweight fee is predictable, but still annoying because a stupid, measly one-way 1 hour and 50 minute flight is screwing me over on my other 28 hours of round-trip fly time, when I should be allowed to carry far more for far less. (I could have booked the NYC-PIT connection along with my DXB-NYC flight on Emirates and gotten the very same Delta flight and then probably would have gotten away with 70 pounds of free luggage the whole way to PIT, but Emirates was charging a shockingly unbelievable extra $800+ for that connecting flight, whereas it only costs a lil more than $100 if I booked directly via Delta.)

You might wonder why in the world I would even need 70 pounds of luggage on a 2 week trip.  Let me tell you, the weight of platform heels and leather handbags adds up very quickly indeed, my friends.  My bad habit of also liking to change outfits multiple times a day does not help.  At least June is warm enough (it had better be, anyway) and I won’t need to bring any heavy winter clothes and boots.  That’s one saving grace.


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