Tag Archives: travel

Places I Wouldn’t Mind Behaving Badly in 2012

With 2012 swiftly approaching and my penchant for pre-planning the year ahead starting to kick into gear, I’ve begun to to think about my top travel goals for the next 12 months.

Kerala, India: After putting India on the backburner so many times over the years I’ve lived pretty much next-door to it, India is definitely scheduled in for a visit this year. I have to get it out of the way. I’d like to focus on Kerala in pre-monsoon season (ie. May) for a couple weeks. It will be the total opposite of Dubai with its abundant greenery, lack of glittering, soulless housing developments & skyscrapers and bling, and hopefully regular bouts of rain. Exactly what I am looking for in a holiday – the opposite of my normal life. If I’m really lucky there will be poor t0 no internet/phone service so no-one can get in touch with me! That’s a real vacation. And curry, the curry. I just hope I don’t get tired of having to eat it for breakfast, lunch and dinner and everything in-between.

Lebanon: Party, shop and EAT in Beirut. Historic sites and ancient ruins throughout the rest of the country. Maybe summer?

Hong Kong: Whether I continue to consider a move out here or not, I desperately want to visit Hong Kong with the quickness. The urban/natural combo landscape of the area looks incredible and anyway I absolutely love visiting Asia. The city looks far more stimulating than Dubai and I bet there are some good eats, too. I’m particularly curious about Kowloon. And delighted to visit whenever I can fit it in to the schedule.

Wengen, Switzerland: Yeah, so I’ve been here before and am returning to the exact same place pretty much exactly one year later so it doesn’t sound that interesting. BUT! I never got around to trying out that rather dangerous-looking and injury-inducing sledging sledding down the mountain last time. It’s definitely on my list to try this year. After more than a few glasses of Glühwein. Because getting hurt hurts so much less when you’re drunk.

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Outside of this, I hope to pop in some random long weekends/short week trips to other locales around the Middle East (& possibly India, as I think the visa for that country should last a full 6 months, so may as well make good use of it). And I really want to go back to Oman to see an opera in Muscat’s new opera house, Royal Opera House Muscat. And hopefully a Halloween/wedding-related trip back to the states in the second-half of the year?

And I’m certainly not one of those new year resolution assholes, but if I do have one for 2012, it is this: I will not waste/lose my vacation days next year like I did in 2011. Out of the 30 vacation days I am given, I think I only used maybe 20? I’m in no way pleased about this, as what I don’t use I simply lose at the end of the year, and will be making sure it doesn’t happen again in 2012.


The Petra Petting Zoo

If you like petting animals, the ancient site of Petra is the place for you. It was only missing llamas. Camels, horses, donkeys, super-cute cats (and 1 bitchy one that scratched me), hey let’s throw some dogs in there – it was a really great historical petting zoo. So far in my travels, Jordan is second only to Greece for its population of cute, friendly, random animals (ie. cats) to pet.

It also had some archaeological crap.

peek!

Petra.
(full photo album)

It costs a small fortune to get in (USD $70 for a 1-day pass, but if you get a multiple-day pass the prices are much better) but it really is worth every cent. The site of Petra is absolutely huge and you pretty much get full run of it. For the most part, you’ll see no ropes or fences holding you back from going anywhere, like those who’ve visited historical sites in America or Europe would be familiar with. You can climb all over the place, go inside the ancient carved-out structures and no-one and nothing will stop you!

After you’re assaulted by the adorable and playful kittens at the entrance gate, you’ll next be assaulted by the agitating guys trying to get you on a horse or donkey for the the walk through the Siq into the main site of Petra. I think the walk (or ride, if you’re a lazy bitch) was about 2 kilometers and when you get to the end you are immediately met with the Treasury (of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade fame) bang in your face. Being an early-riser, we got to Petra around 7am, before almost anyone else, so had the pleasure of seeing the Treasury and a bunch of other stuff without the usual crowd mob (there were only 2 other people there at the time).

On the way back out of Petra later that day, the Treasury and Siq, empty upon arrival, were overflowing with assholes. If there’s one tip I would give anyone visiting Petra, it would be to get there as early as possible (I later found out it actually opened at 6am and had we known that, probably we would have got there even earlier). Having a site this incredible to yourself, before the mob of guests and vendors arrive, is practically priceless.

 

Simply, Petra was really incredible. So much to see, everywhere you looked there was yet more carved into the stone. I cannot really even begin to comprehend what this place must of have been like while it was occupied. The exploring options are really endless and now having been there, I can see how you can easily spend multiple days on the site.

the afternoon sea of people

 

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The Dead Sea & Karak.
(full photo album)

 

dead sea

Prior and on the way down to making our way to Petra, we also stopped at the Dead Sea. Not that I actually got in.

Two reasons:
1.) It was fucking cold. I mean like, wearing a jacket and shoes with socks cold (& LOL I only brought 1 sweater, sandals and no socks because I’m one of those asshats who thinks everywhere in the Middle East is hot like the Gulf). I’m not getting wet in that weather.
2.) I was disgusted after seeing this from An Idiot Abroad, I just no, ew, no, did not want to get in there (although to be fair, I already harbored a healthy distaste for most bodies of water because you just do not know what disgusting shit is in there):

All that aside, it was a nice place to stop for the night. I may not have gotten in, but the Dead Sea looked lovely, especially at night when the lights of Jerusalem lit up the sky on the other side, and resort, the Mövenpick, was really very pleasant and had a bunch of fluffy cats strolling the grounds.

crusader castle at karak

On the drive down to Petra the map indicated there would be a few Crusader castles/fortresses to check out along the way. While unable to find them all, thankfully the castle in Karak was impossible to miss and well-worth the stop to explore it. Perched on a hill atop the town and much like Petra, it was still in impressive condition and you were able to explore pretty much every nook and cranny within the castle as again, there were no fences, ropes or signs to stop you from doing so. This town also boasted a delicious lunch. And anywhere with delicious Levantine food is good in my book.


Eid al-Fitr in Oman

eid crescent moon over nizwa

A  very toasty Eid al-Fitr (the festival/holiday that marks the end of Ramadan) was spent in Oman this year.  We decided to break-in (although hopefully not break-break) the SUV in the country’s wadis and mountains, although some time was spent in Muscat, too.  And also hoped it would be cooler in said areas.  It was not.  Cannot wait for summer weather to be over.  Hopefully by early or mid-October we’ll have some weather you can spend time outdoors in comfortably…

Oman was predictably nice, although the drive there and ordeal to get through the border leaves something to be desired.

Muscat was pretty much the usual – have a look around town (I checked out the Sultan’s palace, which I had not seen before) and then find some curry and booze in the evening.  Nothing of great interest.

entrance to the sultan's palace in muscat

After Muscat a move from the seaside into the Hajjar mountains and Nizwa, where I had hoped for cooler weather.  Disappointingly, it was not at all cooler, except for near the top of Jabal Shams (which you access from a windy dirt road), the highest peak in Oman and located near Nizwa.  The views and canyon up there were pretty fantastic, too.  You certainly weren’t very tempted to step too close to the edge of the gorges to get a closer look at the often shocking drop.

the goats were cool with the hanging out on the edge, though

a long fucking way down

On the way back down Jabal Shams, dark clouds began to gather, and to my surprise it began to rain (rain? in summer? unheard of!).  We had a fairly decent downpour for some time.  Most people would complain when rain unexpectedly shows its face while you’re traveling or on holiday, but not when you live in a sandpit.  It’s a real fucking treat.  It could hardly have come at a more dangerous time however, as we had to pass through wadis at the base of the mountain and there were strong warnings against going anywhere near them if it even looked like it might rain in the general vicinity.  No flash floods this time though; I escaped with my life.

miraculously, water fell from the sky

On the way back to Nizwa from Jabal Shams, we decided to stop by a couple other locations to take in the scenery – Misfat Al Abryeen, the oldest village in Oman, clinging to a mountainside with terraces of date palms…

i would totally have a weekend villa there

…and Wadi Tanuf.  Which after a very long, rocky drive through the bed of the wadi, we finally arrived at a little village with more date palm terraces and falaj (irrigation) systems.  It’s unfortunate that I do not like dates.

path through the falaj and date palms in wadi tanuf

That evening, back in Nizwa, we set out to find some shawarma (and I also was hankering manakish, but that hankering went unfulfilled) and strolled through the very traditional streets and fort in town.  Dubai it was not, thankfully.

nizwa - a good place to buy pottery

on the way to the mosque

To break up the pretty much excruciatingly boring drive back to Dubai the next day, I was insistent to stop by Wadi Damm to check out the ancient beehive tombs, dating from as far back as the 3rd millennium BC (yah, fine, cool, whatever) – but what I really wanted was to hop into the wadi pools surrounded by hanging green moss and other planty lushness that is not usual for this region, that the Oman Off-Road Explorer book tantalizingly showed photos of.

old as shit beehive tombs @ al ayn, near wadi damm

thar be pools down in that wadi...but i sure as fuck couldn't find them

Never found the pools though.  Apropos, I guess, considering “damm/dham” means “hidden” in Arabic.  I really want to go back and have another look though; maybe in the spring, after the rainy season.  Also when it’s not 105-110 °F out.

yet another date palm farm - this one with impressively steep jabal misht in the background

 

{ Full photo album from this trip can be found HERE }


Muscat, Oman: The Chedi

Not one who enjoys staying grounded for long, I jetted off to Muscat, Oman this past weekend.  Partly to celebrate to celebrate the 3-year anniversary with my boyfriend, and partly simply to get the hell out of Dubai.

I had been to Muscat once before, almost 3 years ago, and absolutely adored the old Arabic city book-ended by the stark Hajjar Mountains and the lovely Indian Ocean.  I’d been looking to go back ever since.  Unfortunately, during this trip I did not actually get to see much of the city; the obscene heat this time of year just doesn’t allow for outdoor activities.  I did, however get to stay at The Chedi, a resort I’d been basically obsessing over staying at ever since I stopped there for a quick cocktail during my previous visit to Muscat.

And it did not disappoint.

I’ve definitely been in 5-star hotels that, while nice, did not really impress; The Chedi Muscat was not one of these.  The entire experience was enormously pleasurable and not one aspect of the hotel or the service there was anything less than 5-star incredible.  True, you’re going to pay for those services, but in my opinion, it was money well-spent.  Most notably, the food was a costly addition.  10.5 rials (~ 28 USD) for the hamburger ordered from the poolside lunch menu, but seriously, that hamburger, which my boyfriend claimed was the best he had ever eaten, was ridiculously delectable – as was any other food or cocktail eaten on the Chedi grounds.  Even the gift shop was considerably better than the norm and, not having bought a new bathing suit since I first moved to Dubai, I was presented with a large selection of colorful options from La Perla.

reception

We arrived at The Chedi quite early; a 6.40am flight out of Dubai had us at the Chedi at 9am.  Remarkably, they were able to check us into our room immediately (although it’s worth noting that the summer is the low season in the Gulf)!  Additionally, I requested a late check out for the next day (our flight departed at 9pm) and they offered a 6pm check-out time.  Very much appreciated, especially when I figured offering a 2 or 3pm check-out would be generous.

Upon check-in, we decided to upgrade to a Chedi Deluxe Club room.  The complimentary minibar (OMG yes), pre-dinner cocktails and canapes and airport transfer in a hotel car, not to mention the better room, seemed worth the added fee.

the Chedi pool

Without question, my favorite bit of the Chedi and its gorgeous grounds was the beach-side Chedi pool, which was open to adults only.  Not having to tolerate children screaming and splashing around in the pool was such a treat.  Nothing ruins a relaxing day at the pool more or faster than the appearance of children.  The Chedi also had a second pool, the Serai pool, which was open to children.  Both were really lovely, but I spent all of my time relaxing on the massive lounges at the Chedi pool, broken up with dips in the (really) chilled pool and the ocean, which was literally bath-water warm.

the Serai pool

Lazy holidays are really, really not my thing.  I can tolerate doing nothing but lazing for a few days, maximum, but then I will quickly become bored and agitated.  For just a weekend though, I found The Chedi to be a choice destination to partake in absolutely fucking nothing.

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[ full Muscat/Chedi album here ]

{ music: Bitter:Sweet }


America: Land of the Free & Home of the Ho’s Wearing Really Really Short Shorts

That’s what I took away from this particular trip home.  Bitches be wearing some insanely short shorts.  Everywhere you look.  Was it like this before I left?  I don’t remember…the last time I was in the states during summer was in 2007, as I left just before summer in 2008.  So either 1.) I’ve simply forgotten; 2.) this is a new trend; or 3.)I’ve been in the Middle East for too long and wearing shorts with hemlines a half inch past your vagina is totally normal.  Unfortunately I am in no place to mock, because in the end I found myself entranced by a pair of heavily-embellished ho-shorts that I simply could not pass up.  Damnit.

Manhattan & Brooklyn bridges

Carson St in the South Side, Pittsburgh

I spent the majority of this trip in my hometown of Pittsburgh, followed by a brief stop in Philadelphia (where I lived for 4.5 years prior to Dubai) and then finished up with a handful of days in NYC.  What made this trip a bit more interesting than a usual trip home is that I was joined by my boyfriend, who is English and had never visited the states before.  I found it quite enjoyable to show him around a bit of my country, and watch him be in awe of our our population of fatties in electric wheelchairs.  So it was a very busy trip, but as vacations that consist of lazing around drive me mad, I would not have had it any other way.

Ohiopyle / Laurel Highlands

In Pittsburgh, we filled our days visiting the local neighborhoods: the South Side with its plethora of bars, Shadyside’s shops, the Strip District’s fresh fish and food markets (and Primanti Bros. sandwiches), and Oakland and the North Side for the Carnegie Museum of Natural History and the Andy Warhol museum, respectively.  Always interested in getting a taste of a new restaurant, we also visited the new(ish) Salt of the Earth restaurant, which uses local and seasonal foods to create their ever-changing menu.  Getting out of the city, we visited Ohiopyle state park in the Laurel Highlands.  It was nice for a change of scenery and a brief stroll through the Pennsylvania forest.

Looking for something particularly “American” to do, we attended a Pirates game (winning against the NY Mets), which was pretty good, especially as I hadn’t gone to a baseball game since I was a kid.

the Pirates' stadium, PNC Park, comes with an OK view

A day was also spent at Kennywood, where amusement rides aside, the price of admission is well worth the choice people-watching all around you.  This is another place I had not been in many years (10+).  The last time I really went there was when I was working there at the end of high school and it was such a nightmare of a job (although still not the worst job I’ve ever had) I was traumatized against going back for some time.

cuteness on South Street, Philli

Only a single night was spent in my previous temporary home of Philadelphia, but time was not wasted and I made sure to hit up some of my favorite dining spots, such as the Reading Terminal Market and Morimoto.  If you ever visit Philadelphia and enjoy food, I cannot emphasize enough the importance of visiting the Reading Terminal Market.  Between eating we browsed my favorite areas – Rittenhouse and Olde City (my old neighborhood, the best!) and perused the Mütter Museum (medical oddities), which I’m ashamed to admit I had never visited while living in Philli.

For the night, we checked into the Palomar, where a spa room will get you a pee with a view.  Also a shower with a view.  And bathrobes in zebra and leopard print.  It was definitely a quality hotel and I’d happily recommend it.  My one complaint was that the minibar did not contain any champagne, which seemed odd to me for an upmarket hotel.

room at Thompson LES

New York City was, as always, amazing.  I based us out of the Lower East Side in the industrial but chic Thompson LES hotel, and each day was spent walking from one neighborhood to the next, pretty much from morning to night.  And nothing could have made me happier.  My biggest dislike about Dubai is the lack of walking areas.  There just are very few walkable neighborhoods and even then, you cannot really walk from one to the next.  There was not much focus on our time in NYC other than taking in the neighborhoods, from FiDi to Central Park West (despite my general opposition for spending time in mid- & uptown) and notable parks like the innovative High Line, which I loved.

One thing we did focus on was naturally – the food.  Previously-planned dinners at Blue Hill Farm in Greenwich Village and Del Posto in the Meatpacking District were both outstanding.  It’s difficult to pick a favorite as they both stood out in their own way; Blue Hill Farm a lovely small venue featuring dishes from farm fresh foods and Del Posto certainly on the grander side where we indulged in a 7-course chef’s tasting menu of Italian delights (100 layer lasagna, I shit you not).

Jing Fong's in Chinatown

We also made it a point to visit Jing Fong in Chinatown, a dim sum cafeteria/hall that seemed pretty recommended and ended up being both quirky and delicious, as well as Beauty & Essex for drinks, near our hotel in the Lower East Side. B&E – with its cheeky pawn shop facade was a fun place to stop with great drinks (+ free champagne in the bathroom, ladies! but none for you, dudes) but my understanding is that the food is not as good as it could be.  I was originally planning to eat there (the “American tapas” idea intrigued me) was but talked out of it by seemingly mediocre dining experiences left and right.  Otherwise, we stumbled into various bars, restaurants and cafes here there and everywhere and were, for the most part, very pleased with everything on offer.

boating in Central Park

Some particular highlights were – a boating session on one of the lakes within Central Park (where not only turtles and ducks, but pages ripped from porn mags abounded), shopping in SoHo and I really cannot express enough how much I simply love taking in Downtown NYC in general.  I don’t think I could ever tire of it.

Generally speaking, I did not take many photographs during this trip.  I dunno why, but I always feel like such an asshhat taking photos in places that I am familiar with.  It’s a real shame though, because I’d love to have more pictures from all the places I visited.  Oh well.  Another trip is in order, I suppose.

I’m also bummed I dropped the ball on seeing some people and feel like a jackass in that regard.  It was an even busier trip than I expected it to be and I just couldn’t get it all worked out, sadly.

Hopefully it won’t be another 1.5 years until my trip home…ugh, but it’s tough.

Empire State building from Greenwich Village

[ USA June 2011 full photo album ]

{ music: A Forest Mighty Black }


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