Category Archives: travel

Muscat, Oman: The Chedi

Not one who enjoys staying grounded for long, I jetted off to Muscat, Oman this past weekend.  Partly to celebrate to celebrate the 3-year anniversary with my boyfriend, and partly simply to get the hell out of Dubai.

I had been to Muscat once before, almost 3 years ago, and absolutely adored the old Arabic city book-ended by the stark Hajjar Mountains and the lovely Indian Ocean.  I’d been looking to go back ever since.  Unfortunately, during this trip I did not actually get to see much of the city; the obscene heat this time of year just doesn’t allow for outdoor activities.  I did, however get to stay at The Chedi, a resort I’d been basically obsessing over staying at ever since I stopped there for a quick cocktail during my previous visit to Muscat.

And it did not disappoint.

I’ve definitely been in 5-star hotels that, while nice, did not really impress; The Chedi Muscat was not one of these.  The entire experience was enormously pleasurable and not one aspect of the hotel or the service there was anything less than 5-star incredible.  True, you’re going to pay for those services, but in my opinion, it was money well-spent.  Most notably, the food was a costly addition.  10.5 rials (~ 28 USD) for the hamburger ordered from the poolside lunch menu, but seriously, that hamburger, which my boyfriend claimed was the best he had ever eaten, was ridiculously delectable – as was any other food or cocktail eaten on the Chedi grounds.  Even the gift shop was considerably better than the norm and, not having bought a new bathing suit since I first moved to Dubai, I was presented with a large selection of colorful options from La Perla.

reception

We arrived at The Chedi quite early; a 6.40am flight out of Dubai had us at the Chedi at 9am.  Remarkably, they were able to check us into our room immediately (although it’s worth noting that the summer is the low season in the Gulf)!  Additionally, I requested a late check out for the next day (our flight departed at 9pm) and they offered a 6pm check-out time.  Very much appreciated, especially when I figured offering a 2 or 3pm check-out would be generous.

Upon check-in, we decided to upgrade to a Chedi Deluxe Club room.  The complimentary minibar (OMG yes), pre-dinner cocktails and canapes and airport transfer in a hotel car, not to mention the better room, seemed worth the added fee.

the Chedi pool

Without question, my favorite bit of the Chedi and its gorgeous grounds was the beach-side Chedi pool, which was open to adults only.  Not having to tolerate children screaming and splashing around in the pool was such a treat.  Nothing ruins a relaxing day at the pool more or faster than the appearance of children.  The Chedi also had a second pool, the Serai pool, which was open to children.  Both were really lovely, but I spent all of my time relaxing on the massive lounges at the Chedi pool, broken up with dips in the (really) chilled pool and the ocean, which was literally bath-water warm.

the Serai pool

Lazy holidays are really, really not my thing.  I can tolerate doing nothing but lazing for a few days, maximum, but then I will quickly become bored and agitated.  For just a weekend though, I found The Chedi to be a choice destination to partake in absolutely fucking nothing.

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[ full Muscat/Chedi album here ]

{ music: Bitter:Sweet }


America: Land of the Free & Home of the Ho’s Wearing Really Really Short Shorts

That’s what I took away from this particular trip home.  Bitches be wearing some insanely short shorts.  Everywhere you look.  Was it like this before I left?  I don’t remember…the last time I was in the states during summer was in 2007, as I left just before summer in 2008.  So either 1.) I’ve simply forgotten; 2.) this is a new trend; or 3.)I’ve been in the Middle East for too long and wearing shorts with hemlines a half inch past your vagina is totally normal.  Unfortunately I am in no place to mock, because in the end I found myself entranced by a pair of heavily-embellished ho-shorts that I simply could not pass up.  Damnit.

Manhattan & Brooklyn bridges

Carson St in the South Side, Pittsburgh

I spent the majority of this trip in my hometown of Pittsburgh, followed by a brief stop in Philadelphia (where I lived for 4.5 years prior to Dubai) and then finished up with a handful of days in NYC.  What made this trip a bit more interesting than a usual trip home is that I was joined by my boyfriend, who is English and had never visited the states before.  I found it quite enjoyable to show him around a bit of my country, and watch him be in awe of our our population of fatties in electric wheelchairs.  So it was a very busy trip, but as vacations that consist of lazing around drive me mad, I would not have had it any other way.

Ohiopyle / Laurel Highlands

In Pittsburgh, we filled our days visiting the local neighborhoods: the South Side with its plethora of bars, Shadyside’s shops, the Strip District’s fresh fish and food markets (and Primanti Bros. sandwiches), and Oakland and the North Side for the Carnegie Museum of Natural History and the Andy Warhol museum, respectively.  Always interested in getting a taste of a new restaurant, we also visited the new(ish) Salt of the Earth restaurant, which uses local and seasonal foods to create their ever-changing menu.  Getting out of the city, we visited Ohiopyle state park in the Laurel Highlands.  It was nice for a change of scenery and a brief stroll through the Pennsylvania forest.

Looking for something particularly “American” to do, we attended a Pirates game (winning against the NY Mets), which was pretty good, especially as I hadn’t gone to a baseball game since I was a kid.

the Pirates' stadium, PNC Park, comes with an OK view

A day was also spent at Kennywood, where amusement rides aside, the price of admission is well worth the choice people-watching all around you.  This is another place I had not been in many years (10+).  The last time I really went there was when I was working there at the end of high school and it was such a nightmare of a job (although still not the worst job I’ve ever had) I was traumatized against going back for some time.

cuteness on South Street, Philli

Only a single night was spent in my previous temporary home of Philadelphia, but time was not wasted and I made sure to hit up some of my favorite dining spots, such as the Reading Terminal Market and Morimoto.  If you ever visit Philadelphia and enjoy food, I cannot emphasize enough the importance of visiting the Reading Terminal Market.  Between eating we browsed my favorite areas – Rittenhouse and Olde City (my old neighborhood, the best!) and perused the Mütter Museum (medical oddities), which I’m ashamed to admit I had never visited while living in Philli.

For the night, we checked into the Palomar, where a spa room will get you a pee with a view.  Also a shower with a view.  And bathrobes in zebra and leopard print.  It was definitely a quality hotel and I’d happily recommend it.  My one complaint was that the minibar did not contain any champagne, which seemed odd to me for an upmarket hotel.

room at Thompson LES

New York City was, as always, amazing.  I based us out of the Lower East Side in the industrial but chic Thompson LES hotel, and each day was spent walking from one neighborhood to the next, pretty much from morning to night.  And nothing could have made me happier.  My biggest dislike about Dubai is the lack of walking areas.  There just are very few walkable neighborhoods and even then, you cannot really walk from one to the next.  There was not much focus on our time in NYC other than taking in the neighborhoods, from FiDi to Central Park West (despite my general opposition for spending time in mid- & uptown) and notable parks like the innovative High Line, which I loved.

One thing we did focus on was naturally – the food.  Previously-planned dinners at Blue Hill Farm in Greenwich Village and Del Posto in the Meatpacking District were both outstanding.  It’s difficult to pick a favorite as they both stood out in their own way; Blue Hill Farm a lovely small venue featuring dishes from farm fresh foods and Del Posto certainly on the grander side where we indulged in a 7-course chef’s tasting menu of Italian delights (100 layer lasagna, I shit you not).

Jing Fong's in Chinatown

We also made it a point to visit Jing Fong in Chinatown, a dim sum cafeteria/hall that seemed pretty recommended and ended up being both quirky and delicious, as well as Beauty & Essex for drinks, near our hotel in the Lower East Side. B&E – with its cheeky pawn shop facade was a fun place to stop with great drinks (+ free champagne in the bathroom, ladies! but none for you, dudes) but my understanding is that the food is not as good as it could be.  I was originally planning to eat there (the “American tapas” idea intrigued me) was but talked out of it by seemingly mediocre dining experiences left and right.  Otherwise, we stumbled into various bars, restaurants and cafes here there and everywhere and were, for the most part, very pleased with everything on offer.

boating in Central Park

Some particular highlights were – a boating session on one of the lakes within Central Park (where not only turtles and ducks, but pages ripped from porn mags abounded), shopping in SoHo and I really cannot express enough how much I simply love taking in Downtown NYC in general.  I don’t think I could ever tire of it.

Generally speaking, I did not take many photographs during this trip.  I dunno why, but I always feel like such an asshhat taking photos in places that I am familiar with.  It’s a real shame though, because I’d love to have more pictures from all the places I visited.  Oh well.  Another trip is in order, I suppose.

I’m also bummed I dropped the ball on seeing some people and feel like a jackass in that regard.  It was an even busier trip than I expected it to be and I just couldn’t get it all worked out, sadly.

Hopefully it won’t be another 1.5 years until my trip home…ugh, but it’s tough.

Empire State building from Greenwich Village

[ USA June 2011 full photo album ]

{ music: A Forest Mighty Black }


Wadi Wurrayah, Fujairah

{ Wadi Wurrayah Album }

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Thanks to the occasion of the birthday of the Prophet Mohammed (PBUH), this past weekend was a much appreciated 3-day holiday weekend.

And as the weather this time of year is gorgeous – comfortably hot days with lovely clouds and a nice breeze and best of all – no humidity (people are often surprised to hear that it’s actually very humid here in the summer; Dubai’s climate is both arid and sub-tropical depending on the time of year).  In other words, the perfect weather to spend the day exploring the UAE’s nature.

A bit of researching uncovered a wadi – Wadi Wurrayah – and natural waterfall (UAE’s only, apparently) in Fujairah, one of our fave bits of the UAE.  Situated on the Indian Ocean (fabulous snorkeling here) with the Hajar Mountains just off the coast, Fujairah and its landscape are really gorgeous.  If it wasn’t for the annoying 1.5-2 hour drive away from Dubai, I’d honestly live in Fujairah and commute to work in Dubai.  But too far, it’s not an option, have to put that idea out of my mind.

Sounding lovely and shamed we hadn’t heard of Wadi Wurrayah earlier, we set off after breakfast.  It was pretty easy to get to, basically just outside of Khor Fakkan, with the road leading to the wadi being located right on the Fujairah/Sharjah border.  And being that I’ve got no sense or understanding of direction, that’s about all you’re going to get from me as far as the location goes.

Shortly the road ends if you’re not in a good 4×4 and you’ll find yourself atop the Wadi Wurrayah with a short climb down the side into the dried up riverbed.  In no time you’ll find yourself at the waterfall and pool; you’ll know because the area is littered with garbage, graffiti and ignorant, careless assholes.

You can hang out here, or you can keep on walking down the riverbed to get away from the jagoffs trashing up the joint.  Luckily, most people were too lazy to go beyond the waterfall.

I wasn’t even expecting to find much beyond the waterfall, we just wanted to walk and spend a day outside in peace.  After a short bit, some little pools of water and plants started popping up, much to our surprise.  I was delighted and this was more than I was counting on in some dry craggy mountains in a desert.

A bit more walking and the riverbed began to thin and wind somewhat drastically (initially very wide, now not even a small car could fit through it) and a small trickle of stream ran through it.  I even saw a little frog, I was sooooo pleased!

Suddenly, the gorge thinned even more and the entire pass dipped into a pristine pool of water.

Walking through the pool, the other end of the pass opened up to a healthy run of water, greenery and dragonflies.

As you follow the riverbed and water further and further you come across more crystal clear little pools (some with little fish), small waterfalls and beautiful rock formations.

We continued on and on, and it got to the point that most of the walk at this point was through streams and pools and up little waterfalls.

Eventually a point was reached where we couldn’t really go any further because the waterfalls were getting a bit too steep, and there was too much water and we did not come out there expecting this sort of wet terrain at all!  Shoes and expensive camera equipment prevented us from continuing on.

We had lunch at a lovely (very cold) pool and then headed back.

This is such an amazing location, I hope to go back as soon as possible, and be prepared to go even further up the wadi.  We saw another small group of people right around where we turned back who told us that if we were prepared to get soaked and swim some, about 2 kilometers up were some really nice, big pools to relax at.  Tempting!  And the side bonus is that it’s difficult to get to so you probably won’t find yourself annoyed by large groups of people leaving their garbage everywhere and being loud and aggravating.  Even if you only go as far as we did (which was just a slightly strenuous walk), it’s still incredibly peaceful and beautiful.  Thank goodness for a lazy and in-adventurous population!

Nice-looking moon last night, too.


Wengen, Switzerland

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the eiger

Switching it up from my more usually planned trips to places where snow and warm layers are never any consideration (I generally hate the stuff), I found myself excited about  a trip to Switzerland.  Cold weather may not sit well with me (it literally causes me pain, like my body just wants to cramp up all over) but I am willing to go through some suffering to get a good bit of snowboarding in.

After spending a good portion of my life skiing (started when I was 11-ish) and snowboarding (started in my early 20′s) in the not-so-glamorous state of Pennsylvania, I was totally beside myself with excitement to finally get the chance to hit the slopes on the Swiss Alps – in the Jungfrau region of the Berner Oberland, to be exact.  That being said, I really miss my PA haunts: Seven Springs in the Laurel Mountains and Camelback in the Poconos.  Good times!

wengen's main street

I stayed in the ludicrously quaint village of Wengen, which was only accessible via train – and adorable little trains at that.  No cars were allowed there (with  the exception of some small ones owned by hotels and locals, I think) which added to the whole traditional atmosphere of the village and really made for an incredibly peaceful locale.  Wengen is surrounded by the peaks of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, and is connected to the nearby villages of Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen, as well as the mountain pass of Kleine Scheidegg via the previously mentioned adorable little railway system (the Wengernalpbahn, it was called).

excuse the wallpapers' beauty

The town was traditional in most every way, and that included the hotels.  Our hotel, the Wengener Hof, was predictably traditional and the service very friendly.  Every evening we were served a 5-course dinner, and one evening a 7 course dinner.  Can’t really complain, the food was fine but not exceptional.  Could do to use the salt a bit more. What really stood out about the hotel was the decor, however.  It was…I’m not even sure how to describe it?  Let’s just say there was a lot going on and you probably would not want to drop any acid whilst staying there.  My room had three different wall papers on the walls (as seen on the right).  Also, the curtains and sofas were upholstered in the same print as the two floral wallpapers!  It was a lot to take in.  But a nice hotel, still.

the männlichen cable car

The skiable spots in the area were First, Männlichen-Kleine Sheidegg, and Mürren-Schilthorn; I had access to all but the latter.  These were all connected via either train or cable cars and were generally easy to get to, however I only visited First once as it was a small journey that took up a lot of the morning.  Most of my time was spent gleefully snowboarding around Kleine Sheidegg (a 25 minute train ride up the mountain from Wengen), in the shadow of the Eiger and down the Lauberhorn.

happy, snowy trails!

 

The conditions were great and the scenery amazing.  The really fantastic thing about the slopes in the area was the length.  Some of them took ages to get down so it totally made up for having to wait for and then take the train back up the mountain, as some trails went so far down (you could ski from Kleine Scheidegg to Grindelwald, even) you were our of reach of lifts and cable cars.  Snowboarding from Kleine Scheidegg was great because there were a nice variety of slopes, but also because you could quickly take the cable car from Wengen to Männlichen, ski a zig-zaggy path of various slopes and lifts from Männlichen to Kleine Scheidegg, spend the day romping around Kleine Scheidegg and the Lauberhorn, then at the end of the day ski all the way back down to Wengen via an entirely different route.  And in-between stop off at the lodges to warm up with some warm glühwein and apple fritters.  Yum.

Speaking of snowboarding, the one thing that I found a bit surprising was the lack of snowboarders.  Back home, in PA, over the years the snowboarder to skier ratio has really evened out.  While I’d say there are still more skiers, ‘boarders are everywhere.  In the Jungfrau, not so much.  I felt like it was 10 years ago in PA, when there were only a fairly small percentage of snowboarders (maybe around 15%?).  Even the shops didn’t stock much snowboarding gear, if any at all!  It was interesting to see the difference.

a ski rack on the back of one of the trains

Zürich

A very brief day and night at the end of the trip was spent in Zürich, due to the flight schedule back to Dubai…and curiosity.  Though my time there was very brief, it seemed like a very nice city, filled with interesting little cafes, bars and shops.  You won’t find me complaining about that.

I will, however, complain about the public toilets.  Public toilets which, in a moment of very serious need, I could not get into because they charged 2 francs (about USD $2) to use.  I literally began crying.  At the end of train ride from Wengen to Zürich, I suddenly realized I was in an emergency bathroom situation (OK, there was a lot of wine on this train).  Not having time to make it before the train pulled into the station, I rushed out, left the luggage and all of my stuff with the boyfriend to watch over while I went on a frantic search for a toilet.  After a bit of a goose-chase, I found the bathroom where I was promptly denied entry because I had no money on me.  For fuck’s sake.  Then the tears started.  Had to run all the way back to where I had left my stuff and procure some change and run all the way back.

I hate Zürich’s public toilet policy, I do not care what anyone says, or what the advantages of said policy may be.  It is stupid.  This is not the first time I’ve come across a public toilet with a fee – they seem pretty common in European cities from my experience, but Zürich’s was by far the most expensive and more importantly, the most inconvenient for me.

{ music: Shpongle / Nothing Lasts…But Nothing is Lost }


Alpine Tropics

Back in Dubai’s sun and sand after taking in a rather perfect amount of snow in just about the quaintest Alpine setting of Wengen, Switzerland/Jungfrau region of the Alps.  Much snowboarding delight was had in the shadow of the Eiger!

The best part?  I didn’t follow a para-skier off the side of the Männlichen!

you don't want to fall off the side of the Männlichen, apparently

Also good?  Minimal snowboarding injuries – just a few (OK a lot more than a few, actually) bruises and I’m not exactly sure what I did to both of my thumbs, but they are in serious pain.  No texting for me at the moment.  But  nothing’s broken or fractured, so great success.

I haven’t got as many photos to go through as usual from this trip, as most of my time was spent snowboarding.  Hopefully I’ll have a proper blog up about my trip later this week.

Currently doing a bit of relaxing at home before heading back to work tomorrow.  Just taking a snappy break from working out some wall designs.  Our walls are shamefully bare (super hard walls that you can’t nail into, frustrating), so today I bought a couple shades of green paint and I am going to paint some stylized bamboo in the living area.  I may live in the desert, but at least within the walls of my flat I can pretend I’m in the tropics!  Anyway, I hope this project turns out well.  I’ve been excited about starting it since before I left for Switzerland.

{music: Ursula 1000 / The Now Sound of Ursula 1000 }


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