Category Archives: photos

Fujairah – Al Hayl castle…& a small serving of other things

A new road opened up recently that cuts through the Hajar mountains and provides a more direct route to/from Dubai and Fujairah (yay!). This is excellent news, considering Fujairah is pretty much my favorite place in all of the UAE and it now only takes an hour to get there; previously it was about  1 hr 45 minutes I think?

This weekend, we tested the new road out and took a little detour to peek at Al Hayl castle. Located just a short drive away from Fujairah city, the (pretty quaint) castle is about 250 years old in a gorgeous location surrounded by mountains and date palm farms.

The structure is by no means huge, but nice to look at all the same and you can climb through it to explore the whole thing. There is a wind tower on the hill above the caste that you can climb to the top of for some lovely views as well.

Also stopped by Fujairah’s mangrove swamps, which I would love to kayak through at some point!

& I know, this blog has been pretty quiet lately. Fuck off, I simply haven’t had anything to say, I guess.

Wengen, Switzerland last month was wonderful; many times better than last year as I didn’t suffer from any migraine attacks this year and I also got new bindings and boots, which did me a world of good on the snowboard. The bindings (K2 Cinch bindings) particularly, I think were much better than my previous pair and gave me much better control. We did a lot of long runs from the top of Männlichen and Kleine Scheidegg that took you all the way down to the village of Grindlewald. These long runs are the best: they wind through the woods (smells like Christmas tree!), have less people on them, and take almost an hour to complete! I love rambling runs!

What’s coming up? While February looks to remain pretty quiet, March and April are going to be rather manic. By the time May rolls around I’m probably going to be on the verge of going utterly fucking mental, so thankfully I have 2 weeks in India to look forward to in early-mid May. Focusing on Kerala, I’m currently working on some vague plans for what to do in the spice & tea plantations in the mountains, Alleppey’s backwaters and Varkala’s lazy beaches.

I hope I find a little something to help beak up the summer here in the UAE (UK? Lebanon?), then plan for a trip into the states (Pittsburgh & NYC) this October – Halloween YESSSS!!


The Petra Petting Zoo

If you like petting animals, the ancient site of Petra is the place for you. It was only missing llamas. Camels, horses, donkeys, super-cute cats (and 1 bitchy one that scratched me), hey let’s throw some dogs in there – it was a really great historical petting zoo. So far in my travels, Jordan is second only to Greece for its population of cute, friendly, random animals (ie. cats) to pet.

It also had some archaeological crap.

peek!

Petra.
(full photo album)

It costs a small fortune to get in (USD $70 for a 1-day pass, but if you get a multiple-day pass the prices are much better) but it really is worth every cent. The site of Petra is absolutely huge and you pretty much get full run of it. For the most part, you’ll see no ropes or fences holding you back from going anywhere, like those who’ve visited historical sites in America or Europe would be familiar with. You can climb all over the place, go inside the ancient carved-out structures and no-one and nothing will stop you!

After you’re assaulted by the adorable and playful kittens at the entrance gate, you’ll next be assaulted by the agitating guys trying to get you on a horse or donkey for the the walk through the Siq into the main site of Petra. I think the walk (or ride, if you’re a lazy bitch) was about 2 kilometers and when you get to the end you are immediately met with the Treasury (of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade fame) bang in your face. Being an early-riser, we got to Petra around 7am, before almost anyone else, so had the pleasure of seeing the Treasury and a bunch of other stuff without the usual crowd mob (there were only 2 other people there at the time).

On the way back out of Petra later that day, the Treasury and Siq, empty upon arrival, were overflowing with assholes. If there’s one tip I would give anyone visiting Petra, it would be to get there as early as possible (I later found out it actually opened at 6am and had we known that, probably we would have got there even earlier). Having a site this incredible to yourself, before the mob of guests and vendors arrive, is practically priceless.

 

Simply, Petra was really incredible. So much to see, everywhere you looked there was yet more carved into the stone. I cannot really even begin to comprehend what this place must of have been like while it was occupied. The exploring options are really endless and now having been there, I can see how you can easily spend multiple days on the site.

the afternoon sea of people

 

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The Dead Sea & Karak.
(full photo album)

 

dead sea

Prior and on the way down to making our way to Petra, we also stopped at the Dead Sea. Not that I actually got in.

Two reasons:
1.) It was fucking cold. I mean like, wearing a jacket and shoes with socks cold (& LOL I only brought 1 sweater, sandals and no socks because I’m one of those asshats who thinks everywhere in the Middle East is hot like the Gulf). I’m not getting wet in that weather.
2.) I was disgusted after seeing this from An Idiot Abroad, I just no, ew, no, did not want to get in there (although to be fair, I already harbored a healthy distaste for most bodies of water because you just do not know what disgusting shit is in there):

All that aside, it was a nice place to stop for the night. I may not have gotten in, but the Dead Sea looked lovely, especially at night when the lights of Jerusalem lit up the sky on the other side, and resort, the Mövenpick, was really very pleasant and had a bunch of fluffy cats strolling the grounds.

crusader castle at karak

On the drive down to Petra the map indicated there would be a few Crusader castles/fortresses to check out along the way. While unable to find them all, thankfully the castle in Karak was impossible to miss and well-worth the stop to explore it. Perched on a hill atop the town and much like Petra, it was still in impressive condition and you were able to explore pretty much every nook and cranny within the castle as again, there were no fences, ropes or signs to stop you from doing so. This town also boasted a delicious lunch. And anywhere with delicious Levantine food is good in my book.


Muscat, Oman: The Chedi

Not one who enjoys staying grounded for long, I jetted off to Muscat, Oman this past weekend.  Partly to celebrate to celebrate the 3-year anniversary with my boyfriend, and partly simply to get the hell out of Dubai.

I had been to Muscat once before, almost 3 years ago, and absolutely adored the old Arabic city book-ended by the stark Hajjar Mountains and the lovely Indian Ocean.  I’d been looking to go back ever since.  Unfortunately, during this trip I did not actually get to see much of the city; the obscene heat this time of year just doesn’t allow for outdoor activities.  I did, however get to stay at The Chedi, a resort I’d been basically obsessing over staying at ever since I stopped there for a quick cocktail during my previous visit to Muscat.

And it did not disappoint.

I’ve definitely been in 5-star hotels that, while nice, did not really impress; The Chedi Muscat was not one of these.  The entire experience was enormously pleasurable and not one aspect of the hotel or the service there was anything less than 5-star incredible.  True, you’re going to pay for those services, but in my opinion, it was money well-spent.  Most notably, the food was a costly addition.  10.5 rials (~ 28 USD) for the hamburger ordered from the poolside lunch menu, but seriously, that hamburger, which my boyfriend claimed was the best he had ever eaten, was ridiculously delectable – as was any other food or cocktail eaten on the Chedi grounds.  Even the gift shop was considerably better than the norm and, not having bought a new bathing suit since I first moved to Dubai, I was presented with a large selection of colorful options from La Perla.

reception

We arrived at The Chedi quite early; a 6.40am flight out of Dubai had us at the Chedi at 9am.  Remarkably, they were able to check us into our room immediately (although it’s worth noting that the summer is the low season in the Gulf)!  Additionally, I requested a late check out for the next day (our flight departed at 9pm) and they offered a 6pm check-out time.  Very much appreciated, especially when I figured offering a 2 or 3pm check-out would be generous.

Upon check-in, we decided to upgrade to a Chedi Deluxe Club room.  The complimentary minibar (OMG yes), pre-dinner cocktails and canapes and airport transfer in a hotel car, not to mention the better room, seemed worth the added fee.

the Chedi pool

Without question, my favorite bit of the Chedi and its gorgeous grounds was the beach-side Chedi pool, which was open to adults only.  Not having to tolerate children screaming and splashing around in the pool was such a treat.  Nothing ruins a relaxing day at the pool more or faster than the appearance of children.  The Chedi also had a second pool, the Serai pool, which was open to children.  Both were really lovely, but I spent all of my time relaxing on the massive lounges at the Chedi pool, broken up with dips in the (really) chilled pool and the ocean, which was literally bath-water warm.

the Serai pool

Lazy holidays are really, really not my thing.  I can tolerate doing nothing but lazing for a few days, maximum, but then I will quickly become bored and agitated.  For just a weekend though, I found The Chedi to be a choice destination to partake in absolutely fucking nothing.

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[ full Muscat/Chedi album here ]

{ music: Bitter:Sweet }


Creek Park in Dubai

I recently paid a little visit to Creek Park in Dubai.  I think it is the only park in town I hadn’t been to yet and a shame because the views of and around Dubai Creek are my favorite in town.  I much prefer the older skylines and buildings from Bur Dubai and Deira than the newer stuff that is constantly being built off of Sheikh Zayed Road and in the Marina.  The new stuff may have some interesting architecture, but I don’t think it really has any personality or life to it.

Creek Park shore/beach with Deira and the Park Hyatt, Yacht and Golf Club across the Creek

And in the opposite direction…

view of the (always dead and possibly defunct) Wonderland amusement park, Wafi resort (the pyramid) and Sheikh Zayed Road skyscrapers in the background

another look at Wonderland, with the Hyatt just behind

This little park visit may well be one of my last – if not the last – outings under the sun for quite some time.  The temperatures in Dubai have been quite on the rise lately.  We always seem to go straight from winter to summer here.  No spring with a gradual climate change.  One day it’s a balmy (for Dubai) 80 degrees and no humidity, then you wake up one morning and suddenly it’s hitting the 90′s with soggy, gross, humidity permeating the air.  And once that happens, there is no looking back.  It’s just going to keep getting hotter until we begin to cool back down in late October.

Walking around Creek Park this weekend, I quickly realized winter’s lovely climate has decided to leave us and likely would not be returning for many, many more months.

The Dubai World Cup (horse race) is in about a week and a half.  A really great time, but I do hope that, unlike last year, the temperatures stay out of the 100+ range.

view across the Creek of QD’s (left on the shore), the Park Hyatt (midde), and the Dubai Yacht and Golf club (right)


Wadi Wurrayah, Fujairah

{ Wadi Wurrayah Album }

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Thanks to the occasion of the birthday of the Prophet Mohammed (PBUH), this past weekend was a much appreciated 3-day holiday weekend.

And as the weather this time of year is gorgeous – comfortably hot days with lovely clouds and a nice breeze and best of all – no humidity (people are often surprised to hear that it’s actually very humid here in the summer; Dubai’s climate is both arid and sub-tropical depending on the time of year).  In other words, the perfect weather to spend the day exploring the UAE’s nature.

A bit of researching uncovered a wadi – Wadi Wurrayah – and natural waterfall (UAE’s only, apparently) in Fujairah, one of our fave bits of the UAE.  Situated on the Indian Ocean (fabulous snorkeling here) with the Hajar Mountains just off the coast, Fujairah and its landscape are really gorgeous.  If it wasn’t for the annoying 1.5-2 hour drive away from Dubai, I’d honestly live in Fujairah and commute to work in Dubai.  But too far, it’s not an option, have to put that idea out of my mind.

Sounding lovely and shamed we hadn’t heard of Wadi Wurrayah earlier, we set off after breakfast.  It was pretty easy to get to, basically just outside of Khor Fakkan, with the road leading to the wadi being located right on the Fujairah/Sharjah border.  And being that I’ve got no sense or understanding of direction, that’s about all you’re going to get from me as far as the location goes.

Shortly the road ends if you’re not in a good 4×4 and you’ll find yourself atop the Wadi Wurrayah with a short climb down the side into the dried up riverbed.  In no time you’ll find yourself at the waterfall and pool; you’ll know because the area is littered with garbage, graffiti and ignorant, careless assholes.

You can hang out here, or you can keep on walking down the riverbed to get away from the jagoffs trashing up the joint.  Luckily, most people were too lazy to go beyond the waterfall.

I wasn’t even expecting to find much beyond the waterfall, we just wanted to walk and spend a day outside in peace.  After a short bit, some little pools of water and plants started popping up, much to our surprise.  I was delighted and this was more than I was counting on in some dry craggy mountains in a desert.

A bit more walking and the riverbed began to thin and wind somewhat drastically (initially very wide, now not even a small car could fit through it) and a small trickle of stream ran through it.  I even saw a little frog, I was sooooo pleased!

Suddenly, the gorge thinned even more and the entire pass dipped into a pristine pool of water.

Walking through the pool, the other end of the pass opened up to a healthy run of water, greenery and dragonflies.

As you follow the riverbed and water further and further you come across more crystal clear little pools (some with little fish), small waterfalls and beautiful rock formations.

We continued on and on, and it got to the point that most of the walk at this point was through streams and pools and up little waterfalls.

Eventually a point was reached where we couldn’t really go any further because the waterfalls were getting a bit too steep, and there was too much water and we did not come out there expecting this sort of wet terrain at all!  Shoes and expensive camera equipment prevented us from continuing on.

We had lunch at a lovely (very cold) pool and then headed back.

This is such an amazing location, I hope to go back as soon as possible, and be prepared to go even further up the wadi.  We saw another small group of people right around where we turned back who told us that if we were prepared to get soaked and swim some, about 2 kilometers up were some really nice, big pools to relax at.  Tempting!  And the side bonus is that it’s difficult to get to so you probably won’t find yourself annoyed by large groups of people leaving their garbage everywhere and being loud and aggravating.  Even if you only go as far as we did (which was just a slightly strenuous walk), it’s still incredibly peaceful and beautiful.  Thank goodness for a lazy and in-adventurous population!

Nice-looking moon last night, too.


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