Mumbai in May

Looking @ Malabar Hills from Nariman Point

Looking @ Malabar Hill from Nariman Point

One of the greatest advantages to living in Dubai is its proximity to, well, all kinds of places that are not Dubai or the UAE. With that in mind, I took an opportunity to hop over to Mumbai, India for a weekend quick trip. Fly out Thursday evening, fly back Saturday night. Easy-as. Except for the customs control portion of the Mumbai international airport. That was a nightmare. But it’s never been anything less than frustrating exiting India through one of its airports before, so I don’t know why I would be surprised that Mumbai airport was no different. Also except the traffic in Sharjah (Dubai’s neighboring emirate and pretty much the last place in the world you ever want to find yourself), where we flew out from. Another nightmare I should have counted on but naively did not.

crowds outside of the Gateway of India

crowds outside of the Gateway of India

But anyway, Mumbai. It wasn’t exactly what I was expecting. I think I was expecting it to be like the clusterfuck of filth and electrical wires and rolling blackouts that is Kathmandu (that’s not to say that I do not like Kathmandu – I do. It even has one of my all time favorite hotel stays, Dwarika’s).

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Then Mumbai went ahead and surprised me by being cleaner and more organised than I was prepared for. Mind you, it was still dirty. It was still chaotic. There were still large portions of areas that appeared to be horrible; you did not have to really go out of your way to stumble across a slum, or see people sleeping on the side of the road. I also did not get to thoroughly explore the city, as I was there for such a short period of time, so my views on it are obviously not complete or terribly well-informed.

Some of the areas were fairly interesting though, and nice to be around. A drive through Malabar Hill showed a mix of lovely colonial buildings used as flats along side modern skyscrapers that I can only imagine were probably pretty luxurious. I believe that auto rickshaws and incessant honking was also outlawed in this neighborhood, making it all feel much more calm and civilized. It was the type of area I could imagine myself living in, to be honest.

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Looking @ Chowpatty beach from Hanging Gardens in Malabar Hill

Colaba, where we stayed, was also rather nice. Gorgeous heritage buildings abound here: the Prince of Wales Museum, the Bombay High Court which is picturesquely sat next to some cricket fields, and a little outside of the area is Victoria Terminus railway station (which was really stunning, but we only drove by so I couldn’t get any photos). But really, any which way you looked there was another fantastic old colonial building that more than likely was also in sad disrepair. Raj Era Bombay must have very beautiful.

cricket being played @ Oval Maidan in front of the Bombay High Court

cricket being played @ Oval Maidan in front of the Bombay High Court

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On Friday we had a driver/guide who took us around to these areas, as well as a couple others that had me scratching my head a bit. The “Hanging Gardens” were one. There was nothing hanging so where that name came from I’ve not the slightest. More confusingly, he insisted we see Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat, which is an open air laundry, and really not what I wanted to see. Afterwards I could only question how and where the sheets in my hotel were being washed. It seemed like an odd thing to look at, let alone take photos of, so if you’re curious you’ll just have to do a google image search on your own time.

Gateway of India

Gateway of India

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There was also the kind of random Gateway of India, which attracted droves of people. And seemingly also offered “guess your weight” games? I seriously don’t know. All I know is there were definitely people sitting around the area, each with one scale, and I can’t imagine what else they’d be doing with it. Best not to think too hard about it (pretty much my motto when in India).

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From the start I was intent to stay in Colaba, and as I tend to enjoy doing for the most part when visiting Asian cities, I was trying to find a neat little guesthouse or boho hotel to shack up in. Usually I am good at digging up a fairly quaint place that also ends up being pretty inexpensive. Not happening in Mumbai. The backpacker-type options did not appear at all quaint, and instead looked entirely unappealing. Probably shouldn’t have been shocked.

Taj Mahal Palace and (super ugly) Tower

Taj Mahal Palace and (super ugly) Tower

So, never a fan of the boring grey area, I booked into the old-school lux Taj Mahal Palace and Tower. Unfortunately, into the appallingly hideous (from the exterior) Tower wing, but hey, what are you going to do? I was hoping that upon check in I’d get upgraded into the Palace / heritage wing, but no such luck. That’s not to say I was totally luckless though, as I did get upgraded from a standard room with a city view to a 1-bedroom suite with a city, sea and Gateway of India view. Not too shabby!

view from the suite's living room

view from the suite’s living room

view from the suite's bedroom

view from the suite’s bedroom

The suite, with a foyer, a living area, a dining area, a walk-in closet/dressing room and separate bedroom, was MASSIVE. Filled with books, heritage-looking furniture, and a bunch of other random shit, it was a really pleasant surprise. My only complaint is that the bathroom was pretty small. For all of the space in the room, the bathroom could have definitely been more indulgent. We arrived pretty late and ended up ordering a 1am curry dinner to our room, which was really delicious – some of the best paneer I’ve ever had. And to top it off, it was served to us by a man wearing a jacket and white gloves – the fanciest curry delivery ever!

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stuff around the suite

more stuff around the suite

more stuff around the suite

The pool area, in the Palace/ heritage wing was nothing short of gorgeous, and I happily took advantage of it on the Saturday afternoon before we left.

lovely colonial veranda at the pool

pretty colonial veranda at the pool

how I loved the projectile vomiting lions at the pool

how I loved the projectile vomiting lions at the pool

For the weekend, Mumbai was not bad, and as good a way as any to get one more use out of my 6-month tourist visa, I suppose (OK, I’d rather be in Varkala again, but anyway…). I enjoyed it much more than I expected to. I don’t think I’ll be returning, but it was worth the one trip, for sure. The one thing I wish we could have done was make a day trip to Elephanta Island, but there simply wasn’t the time.

Taj Mahal Palace pool area - very relaxing

from my lounger @ the Taj Mahal Palace pool area – very relaxing


Things pissing me off: April 21st edition

Rain.

The weather has been really unseasonal this spring. The climate is taking its good old time getting really hot, and only in the past week have we gotten into the 100s. There’s a drop to the low 90s predicted for the coming week – not that I’m complaining about that. I enjoy hot weather, but 100 is about my limit. Additionally, we’ve been getting a good deal of rain very late in the rainy season (hah! that it can even be called that). Rain after February is pretty rare, but we’ve been getting lots of it lately, with a bit more to come, apparently. I really hate to complain about the rain, because it is a serious treat to have rain and thunder in Dubai, but I would be remiss if I couldn’t find some way to complain about it. While the rain is lovely, the city is, in almost no way, equipped for it. The lack of decent drainage systems means that roads flood, people drive like complete jackasses as if they’ve never experienced rain before even if they’re from a country that gets lots or rain or even has yearly monsoons (remember, most people living in Dubai are not from this region), and buildings – in my case, my place of work – leaks like a sieve. And it’s seriously flooding, like it has fucked up our floors and electrical wiring big time in the past.

Basically, the reason my place of work floods during any heavy rain event is because it’s located on the ground floor next to a drain pipe whose exit, to pretty much no-one’s surprise, has been poorly constructed so water leaks its way into my work’s floor space from the drain pipe exit.

Needless to say I have complained on various occasions to the building management, and they did eventually try to sort it out.

The fix? Tin foil. Seriously.

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Wonderful! Why properly fix it with caulking or a pipe extension or, I dunno better construction from the get-go, when you can just half-ass it with some tin foil? Wait, sorry, I’m being overly generous. Half-assing it is way more effort than I see here – it’s more like quarter-assing it. The Dubai Way. Clearly this is not something anyone would consider a permanent fix, but I bet you that’s the fix we get to live with. Until a sandstorm or cleaner removes the tin foil, anyway, aaaaaaand we’re back to square 1.

So now, rain and thunder storms, a normally joyful occasion in the desert, just bring feelings of dread and worry. Especially if it rains when it’s outside of my office hours, because then I just stress that I’m going to have to deal with a rain-related work crisis on my time off (which has happened, and in the most inconvenient of circumstances).

Driving.

I witness appalling driving here in Dubai on a daily basis. I consistently hear people whine and bitch and moan about the poor driving in Pittsburgh (spare me, seriously) and Philadelphia (still not that bad) and pretty much everywhere else, but there has been nowhere in America (or anywhere else outside of Asia) that I have experienced where the local driving can can be compared to the unbelievably atrocious and arrogant driving that I face daily in Dubai. I especially find it unbelievable that people complain about their fellow drivers in Pittsburgh, because from all my driving experience at home and abroad, for a city, Pittsburgh is a treat to drive in (unless you factor in the confusing roads and city layout). Generally speaking, people aren’t arrogant behind the wheel, they don’t tailgate too badly, they often use turn signals when they should, speeding is as under control as I’ve ever seen it and in fact, I find the drivers in Pittsburgh to be quite polite and calm. When I switch from Dubai roads to Pittsburgh roads and I want to merge onto a highway it’s like, “Holy shit, you’re letting me merge into your lane in front of you?! No fucking way! You’re not going to speed up because you think you’re better than me and you don’t want me getting in front of you? You’re flashing your lights because you’re going to let me go, not because you want me to get the fuck out of your way? Well, thank you sir.” – that is truly unheard of behavior over here.

What set me off this morning was a a two-lane off-ramp/on-ramp area just off a highway. There were two cars side by side of each other in the lanes, and they both wanted in the other lane. Neither car would move and/or change their speed to allow the other car into their lane to accommodate a civilized lane swap. It was unbelievable! Instead, they each just tried shoving the other car out of the way as much as they could without actually touching, all the while each smashing their hands on their horns without letting up. At the last minute, as the lanes were splitting to go their separate ways, one car sprinted forward and forced their way in front of the other, allowing each to finally get in to the lane they desired. The absurdity of the bullying was kind of funny, except for the fact that they came very close to causing an accident, which I likely would have been a part of as I was only two cars behind. It is so infuriating to witness.

The entirely infuriating and dangerous “shoving” and “bullying” tactic is a very common one here. I sometimes go stretches where I experience it daily. Someone wants into my lane, they don’t see a need to use their turn signal (this is a rarely-utilized function here, because why ask when you can just TAKE), so first of all, I don’t even know they want into my lane so I can’t anticipate their lane change to act accordingly on my end, then they refuse to speed up or slow down, to get in front of or behind me – no, they want my spot in the lane RIGHTNOW. So, they start shoving. And they basically just sidle their car more and more into my lane, against my car, until I have no choice but to give way to them, either by slamming on my breaks or swerving into the other lane next me. And they know what they’re doing. It’s not me being in their blind spot, or them being simply unobservant (although there are unobservant drivers a-plenty here, too), because if I honk to let them know they’re about to hit me, they keep trying to shove. They don’t give up. What makes this worse, or more aggravating, is that I drive a really cheap rental car. Cheap car = human inside who is not worth as much as me = how dare you drive your car in front of me, a superior being. When I had my Mercedes, or even when I now drive the boyfriend’s SUV, it’s a different story entirely on the roads. The bullying and “get out of my way” light flashing is considerably less, people treat me/the car with more respect, driving with (somewhat better) distance around me. Drive a cheap car here and be prepared to be treated like a waste of human life on the roads.

Again, well done Dubai.

Twitter.

I always said I wouldn’t join it. That I found it so abhorrent and childish I must take up my own personal stand against it. But, the other day I caved and joined. And I am annoyed at myself for my weak, weak nature. I wanted to stay on top of news from various art galleries and artists, and as much as it kills me to admit it, it is a really efficient way to do so.

This does not mean I feel like any less of an ass for for joining it, though.

You can follow me and my pointless (I mean, really) twittering @WandringDuchess. Yes, that is spelled incorrectly. Yes, it drives me nuts. Apparently 15 characters is the limit for a handle. Damn you, Twitter.


The Hanging Gardens (Jebel Qatar)

Back home, February was absolutely the most brutally cold, horrific month of the year and I hated it above all other months. It’s not quite the same out here, but it is a bit disappointing in that I feel it’s normally when summer starts to creep back in, and you know by the time you get to late March you can depend on the daytime to start to become uncomfortable if you plan to spend any energy outdoors. So with that in mind, February is generally when I start to feel I need to take advantage of the nice weather before it’s too late.

This weekend was one of those times, and we settled on checking out the ‘hanging gardens’ walk just on the Omani side of the Al Ain border. We thought it would be an easy border crossing (show your passport and be on your way as some of the border posts tend to be out there) but were mistaken. If you go, note that you will indeed need to get stamped out and then back into the UAE, which is something of a nuisance for a 2-hour walk.

The hanging gardens are located on Jebel Qatar, about a 15-20km drive into Oman from Al Buraimi. This easily ended up being one of my favorite walks I’ve taken in the region. It was both beautiful and quiet. It’s rare to find a place that isn’t filled with groups of people picnicking and throwing their garbage all over the place and generally being assholes (any wadi in the UAE, I’m looking at you). Perhaps the fact this was on the Omani side had to do with the fact there was nary an asshole to be found and there was no litter to be seen. I am not ashamed to admit that I think Oman is a far better country than the UAE, for so many reasons. I would love to live there one day. Unfortunately, the one thing Oman lacks are the high quality job ops of the UAE. Damnit. Crucial. Retirement, perhaps? Fuck Florida, give me Muscat.

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After driving down a dusty, rocky dirt track for a bit that is off of the main road, you’ll end up parking your car as close to the base of the ridges ahead of you as you can get. At this point, the location looks pretty much like every one in the region: craggedy-ass stark mountains, rocky hills, boulders hanging out with a few thorny bushes, and a moon-like gravel plain behind you (I want to start a photo game called ‘Moon or UAE?’ where you look at two photos and try to decide which is which, because I swear when you’re near the mountains or wadis, there is very little difference). Look up though, and you’ll see a cave high in the ridge (awesome, I love caves, even though common sense tells me I shouldn’t what with the horrifying centipedes, inbred freaks and who the hell knows what else living in them) and some random plant life hanging off the cliff face.

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Your next step is to go up. Up, up, up, scrambling over rocks and making them fall on the person climbing behind you, while simultaneously avoiding stepping on or grabbing on to any donkey shit decorating the terrain (sadly, despite the incredible amount of poop in the area, not one donkey was seen).

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You make your way up all the way to the cave. A cave that is allegedly inhabited by lots of bats (love bats) but again, I saw none. Although I did see mountainous piles (not an exaggeration) of what must have been guano. I think the bats were way up in the cave, hidden in large holes in the ceiling and walls, that were located directly above the literally cascading piles of excrement.

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Once you head back out of the cave, you start to scramble back down, following along the side of the ridge and its interesting and pointy formations.

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Shortly, you’ll make your way into the ‘hanging garden’ area, which is really very beautiful and unlike almost anything that I’ve seen around here. It’s suddenly rather lush and full of birds, with plant life even growing out of the cliff side.

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It doesn’t last for very long though, and as you continue following the base of the cliff, before you know it, you’re back on the moon. It was nice while it lasted though.

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You can head back to point A various ways; we chose to do some more scrambling. I think the scrambling is in-avoidable, to be honest. But it was definitely more difficult getting back down than it was going up.

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And that’s it, a great walk to be had, even if the border point is a nuisance. I definitely will be wanting to go back, and maybe stop off at the Al Ain Wildlife Park next time on the way home. I’ve heard it’s actually pretty nice, although I think that growing up with Pittsburgh’s zoo has spoiled me.

Next weekend, I’m trading in my dusty hiking sandals, sweaty tank top, skinned toes and bruised toenails – actually no, I suppose I’m stuck with the latter two – for a fancy day out at the Desert Palm resort & polo grounds for the Cartier International Polo Challenge Dubai. Since going last year, it quickly became my favorite Dubai event, much better than the World Cup races.

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Other things I would currently recommend? They both might be new discoveries to me, but better late than never:

- iPad subscription to National Geographic magazine. So good, in my opinion, much better than the print subscription, which is still pretty fantastic.

- Red Dead Redemption: finally a worthy replacement for Skyrim, which at this point has been played to death and beyond in my house. In fact, I’m going to give it a play right now.


Feb 14 random sketch

I don’t want to hear anything about my proportion fuckery because: 1.) I draw like once a a year anymore, so we should all just be happy that I put pencil to paper, & 2.) that crease in the center of the book really, really did not help to make anything easier.

There is no why or what. It is just a sketch born of boredom.

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A tale of two Varkalas

It’s my 100th blog entry!

Anyway.

I generally have little interest in visiting the same place more than once when there’s so much else out there to see, but my low-season visit to Varkala in India had me curious. I really enjoyed the place in May but it was terribly dead then, with most of the shops, restaurants and hotels closed at that time. Perhaps the most disappointing thing was the sea water, which had some sort of disgusting grime floating atop it. I stayed out of the sea that week. People who were living in the area, at least for the season, said that the sea’s current state was vey unusual and most of the time it was gorgeous.

While a nice trip was had, I felt that Varkala probably had more to offer and another visit in high season would be interesting.

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The return trip didn’t start out too well. Checking in online just a couple hours after check in opened, the Emirates flight was utterly rammed. Stuck in middle of the middle seats, but with a stoke of luck I found one set of window/aisle seats open and snapped them up. Then there was the fog problem. The previous day had been extraordinarily foggy and there was no reason to think that the morning would be any different at our departure (& we had the worst fucking departure time possible – 4am). The day before a large portion of flights starting from 4am had been delayed, rerouted, or simply canceled due to the fog (the humidity was hanging around a miserable 95-100%). I was totally prepared for a delay.

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Luckily, the fog didn’t delay us, but upon arriving at the departure gate, our e-tickets appeared to cause some confusion, and I can only assume something went screwy when I changed our seats.

All that boring check in story to say – we got upgraded to Business Class, assholes! The only problem was that I was planning to sleep on this flight, but now faced with free-flowing Moët (& at 4am, remember) obviously I had to spend the 4-hour flight working my way through as much champagne as possible. Which resulted in a pre-lunch hangover. Mature.

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Anyway, high season Varkala was great. We stayed in the Bohemian Masala, where I wanted to stay during our May trip, but it was closed for renovations. The place was great, on the busy cliff top, but the cottages were set back on large, lush, peaceful grounds. The people were friendly, food delicious and organic, cottages as boho as the name suggests, and the hammocks a real fucking challenge to get into with any grace. I would stay here again in a heartbeat, and absolutely plan to. Although I think the addition of peacocks and parrots on the grounds would be wonderful.

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The sea was entirely different from what I saw in May altogether. No grime, clear and blue all around.

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Varkala itself was busy but not annoyingly so; we were expecting it to be overflowing with travelers. Display tables outside of the restaurants that were empty before were now covered in fresh fish to choose from, tandoors were heated up as far as the eye could see – and they smelled phenomenal – and there were triple the shopkeepers begging you to come and buy something from them. Lucky for me I think the cafés’ booze reserves were fuller, too, as last time I think I drank them out of their white wine stock – it was hard to come by that last day or two.

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There is not a great deal to say about Varkala. I see it as a great spot for a long, relaxing, tropical weekend; if you’re looking for an exciting party spot or somewhere with a wide variety of activities, this is not it. There’s a lot of yoga and Ayurvedic stuff, but I’m not really one for either (well, I don’t mind yoga, actually), however my understanding is that scene is supposed to be very good there.

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Unfortunately I haven’t got much planned coming up that takes place outside of Dubai (in Dubai there are some fancy equestrian events I’m hoping to make it to). I was hoping to check out the Royal Opera House in Muscat in April, but when I got in touch for tickets, I was denied! The opera (Madame Butterfly) was already sold out for the day that I old make it. Goddamnit.

I’ve started planning/booking our summer holiday, which I could not be more thrilled to say will take place over the final 2 weeks of (quiet, boring, no-skin-allowed, food-, booze- and music-free, 115°F) Ramadan. That will be spent instead bouncing around some Greek islands – Crete, Santorini, Naxos, Delos and Mykonos – while eating blocks of feta cheese by the fistful.

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